Hellfire Self Timing Muzzle Brake by Area 419

Features:

• Extremely easy installation. Brake WILL NOT turn as you torque the collar to lock. No more guessing where the brake ports will lin up once you tighten it down!
• Simple round knurled nut that requires no tools to time the brake.
• Return to zero is excellent. This means removal of your brake and re-installation will not require a zero change.
• Suppressor mount adapters available.
• Rearward facing ports for the ultimate in recoil reduction. Independently tested side by side with the best brakes on the market. The HELLFIRE showed ad 52% recoil reduction on a 6.5 Creedmoor test rifle. This is ~4% more than one of the most popular brakes on the market.
• Proprietary port design controls muzzle rise without the use of top porting.
• Face of brake is engraved with caliber to indicate the top for correct orientation, and a horizontal line to aid in leveling.
• Made from heat treated 17-4PH Stainless Steel
• Brakes available in Black Nitride or raw stainless (all universal adapters will be black)
• Manufactured on state of the art CNC Machines right in NW Ohio. 100% USA Made.
• 1" OD Brake, 1.1" OD collar
• Additional Hellfire Universal Adapters available here
• Brake assembly will add 2.6" from the thread shoulder (approx 2" added to the OAL of barrel)
• Weighs 4.8 oz for a 5/8-24 6.5mm brake

Caliber Selection:

In order to simplify the choices, we have four caliber selections available for the HELLFIRE brake. The difference in efficiency between using a caliber specific brake bore, and the next size up is so minimal if not nonexistent that Area 419 decided to simplify things in order to lower overall costs to you the consumer. 

• 223/6mm - Good for any bullet caliber up to and including .243 (6mm), ie, 223,5.56 NATO, 204, 17 cal, etc
• 6.5mm - Good for any bullet caliber up to and including .264 (6.5mm), ie 257. (Magnums OK)
• 7mm/308 - Good for any bullet caliber up to and including .308, ie, 7mm, 284, 270, (Magnums OK)
• 338 - Good for any bullet caliber up to and including .338, ie 338WM, 338 LM, 338 MN, 338 Edge (5/8-24 is still max thread size!) See the Sidewinder brake for the ultimate reduction on these cal's

Installation:

• Simply torque the universal adapter onto your barrel with a 5/8" wrench. This piece never has to come off. Next LEFT-HAND thread the brake/collar assembly onto the adapter until it is almost snug. Now rotate the brake until it is level, push the brake into the adapter and you will feel it lock onto the taper. Now tighten the collar fully by hand and you are done.

Maintenance:

Maintenance on any muzzle brake is essential. Just like your barrel, muzzle brakes need to be cleaned. Over time carbon will build up in the ports, mainly the last port as the first two are semi-self cleaning from the muzzle blast. When this carbon builds up, it will eventually get to the point that bullets can actually strike it. Depending on your shooting regimen you may not notice this, you might just call it a flier. But in a competition when you need every round to impact, this is critical. Carbon bullet strikes are a worst-case scenario, but the buildup can also cause accuracy or POI issues just due to airflow changes in the brake ports.

• The best cleaning method for any muzzle brake is PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE. If you clean the brake every time you clean the barrel (200-400 round intervals, shorter for 6mm rounds) it will make your life much easier. With that being said, just soak the brake in a carbon cleaner like Boretech C4 and all the carbon should come right out, especially if you have a Black Nitride brake. Raw stainless brakes can be more challenging to clean because the surface is more porous. If necessary, you can use any kind of cleaning brush to aid in the removal of carbon from the ports. Black Nitride is harder than any material they attach to a brush so you will not scratch the surface. Raw stainless may scratch if you use a stainless or other harder bristle brush.
• If you decide to wait until 1000 rounds or more, you will have a lot of carbon build up in the 2nd and 3rd port which will take some effort to remove. Best method here is probably to soak for a day or two in C4 and use a pick to get the big chunks out. Then follow the above method to get the remainder off.
• You should also clean your Universal Adapter with the same care. Every time you clean your barrel, let the carbon cleaner from patching the barrel soak on the muzzle for a few minutes and use a Q-tip to wipe any carbon from the barrel crown and inside the end of the adapter. Soak a patch in carbon cleaner and wipe the taper surface of the adapter off. If there is persistent carbon on the surface, use steel wool to remove, it will not damage the surface.